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Have not been sleeping well for the past few days due to the planning of my trips and packing my lugguage. And I have to wake up super early at 4am to catch the flight to Phnom Penh. It was somewhat a rush in the early morning as we get ready to go out after booking a cab. Getting to the airport was a breeze in that early morning. How I wish it was everyday! "jam" have been living in my life everyday!
We had our breakfast at the transit lounge after checking in. We only ate bread as it was the most convienent food. I was chatting away with my sis and after sometime I notice that there were 2 people sleeping behind the seats! OMG! How can they sleep on the floor like that?! I guess my voice have woke them up. It was about 6am and we were planning to go to the toilet...but we saw on the screen that it was last call for our flight! Our flight was 6.45am so I guess there were still time to board. But my sis said the gate was closing soon. Due to her panic, I became panicked too...and we were rushing to the departure gate. sigh. I think I almost sit there for 20-30mins b4 we were allowed to board the plane.
Immigration card
Custom declaration card
The flight was only 2hrs. Time flies as we took turn to go to the toilet to do big business since we did not manage to go in the morning. Cambodia time is GMT +7.
There we are at the Phnom Penh airport. I was in totally shocked when the pilot announced that the weather was 24 degree celsius! We only brought light clothes. But I dont feel like it was 24 degree! The morning sun rise out fast and it was quite hot afterwards. Our days in cambodia was also very hot. It was the same as Singapore.
Lucky there was aero bridge! cos we only have hand carry lugguage as checked in cost $20 more.
Health declaration form to declare b4 proceeding to the immigration counter.
Queuing for health screening. At the immigration counter, I got a shocked when the staff pointed to a webcam that had a long neck. He didn tell me that he need to take my photo. He just took it when I look at the webcam. I guess with my jaws open.
There are only 2 baggage conveyors and not very big tho.
After getting out of the arrival hall by the door, turn left and the tourism booth is there. However as we reach there quite early thus it was not open.
Our tuk tuk driver - Alex waited for us outside the arrival hall with my name written on an A4 paper with the flight details. It was pretty easy to identify him as there were not alot of people arriving on the flight.
It was quite cooling when we were on the way to our guesthouse. I really enjoy the ride on tuk tuk as I can feel the wind, temperature, notice the surrounding. However we have to be very careful as the lugguage may be snatch off easily when the tuk tuk slowed down or came to a stop. I am quite worried when my sis kept taking photos on the tuk tuk. It was really dusty on the road. Thus not recommended to wear contact lenses in Cambodia.
The driver drive on the left. I am quite surprised that they did have a countdown timer for the traffic. However that does not improve the chaotic situation on the road.
Many people sharing 1 tuk tuk.
Tada. Here we were at out Nice Guesthouse. It took about 30mins from the airport to the city area. The guesthouse was not on the main street thus not so noisy from the honking of the vehicles.
We waited for about 20mins for them to clean up the room.
Area to surf net
There were 3 storey of rooms. It stated that there were lockers but we found out that we must bring our own key.
Our room was at 2nd floor. And at a quiet corner. However it was not really quiet as beside our room is the staff room. And sometimes they make noise. I should have asked for the window view. But I am afraid that it would be noisy.
The room card need to be insert for the use of electricity. I think that it was quite high tech for a guesthouse. But a key was used to open the door.
A single room @ US$10/night can sleep 2 people!
Room was clean with cable TV, cabinet, desk and a small table beside the bed.
Our 1st stop was at The Royal Palace and Silver Pagoda.
Royal Palace was constructed over a century ago to serve as the residence of the King of Cambodia.
Napoleon III Pavilion - originally built for Empress Eugenie of France, wife of Napoleon III, in 1869 for use in the inauguration of the Suez Canal. It is constructed entirely of iron. In 1876 Emperor Napoleon III made a gift of the building to King Norodom of Cambodia.
The Damnak Chan was constructed in 1953 & houses the administrative offices of the Royal Palace.
Hor Samrith Phimean aka ‘Bronze Palace' was built in 1917. Currently housing a display of royal regalia and costumes on the ground floor.
Namaste
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Chanchhaya Pavilion aka 'Moonlight Pavilion'. The current Pavilion is the second incarnation of the Chanchhaya Pavilion, this one constructed in 1913-14 under King Sisowath to replace the earlier wooden pavilion built under King Norodom. The current pavilion is of the same design as the earlier version. The Pavilion serves as a venue for the Royal Dancers, as a tribune for the King to address the crowds and as a place to hold state and Royal banquets.
Throne Hall "Preah Timeang Tevea Vinicchay" is the primary audience hall of the King, used for coronations and diplomatic and other official meetings. This Throne Hall is the second to be built on this site. The first was constructed of wood in 1869-1870 under King Norodom. That Throne Hall was demolished in 1915. The present building was constructed in 1917 and inaugurated by King Sisowath in 1919.
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Things to take note b4 entering. This applies to all the temples in cambodia too.
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Khemarin Palace - The Royal residence was closed to the public.
Royal Palace and the Silver Pagoda compounds were separated by a walled walkway. Upon stepping into the Silver Pagoda compounds, turn left and you will see Ramayana Frescoes. The interior of the pagoda compound walls is covered with murals depicting stories from the Reamker, i.e. the Khmer version of the classic Indian epic, the Ramayana. The murals were painted in 1903-1904 by a team of students working under the direction of artist Vichitre Chea and architect Oknha Tep Nimit Thneak.
His Majesty King Norodom's Stupa was constructed in 1908 & contained the ashes of the King Norodom (1834-1904).
Silver Pagoda aka Wat Preah Keo Morokat - ‘Temple of the Emerald Buddha.’ It have 5329 silver tiles, handcrafted and weighs 1.125kg each. It contained over 1650 precious objects. The primary Buddha, sitting on a gilded dais above all others in the temple, is the Emerald Buddha, reported by different sources to be made of emerald or baccarat crystal. In front of the Emerald Buddha stands Buddha Maitreya (Buddha of the Future,) a 90 kg golden standing Buddha encrusted with 2086 diamonds including a 25 caret diamond in the crown and a 20 caret diamond embedded in the chest.
Stupa of HM King Suramarit and HM Queen Kossomak Stupa of the father and mother of former King Sihanouk (r: 1955-1960), grandfather and grandmother to King Sihamoni.
Statue of HM King Norodom Equestrian statue of the King Norodom (1834-1904). Completed by French artist Eude in 1875 in Paris and placed on the pagoda grounds in 1892.
Stupa of Princess Kantha Bopha built in 1960. The memorial sanctuary of the beloved daughter of the former King Sihanouk. Princess Kantha Bopha passed in 1952 at the age of four, succumbing to leukemia.
Taken on the steep and narrow steps
The buddha statue was broken
Model of Angkor Wat
The khmer empire was quite big in the past.
Students cycling to school. No school bus or public transport. They have to either walk or cycle. They do not need to wear covered shoe to school. Most of them wear slippers. I think it would be expensive to buy a covered shoe for them.
Choeung Ek Killing Field about 30 mins from the city centre, nearer from the airport. It is opened daily from 7am – 5.30pm. Admission fee is US$2 ~S$2.80.
During the Khmer Rouge regime between 1975 and 1979, more than 15,000 people were transported from Tuol Sleng S21 and murdered here. A Memorial Stupa, built in 1988, displays the remains of human skulls arranged in age and sex behind glass panels. A memorial day, 9th May of each year is held at Choeung Ek.
Clothes of the victims
The Japanese chams for the victims to rest in peace.
It was really sad to come here. U can see the broken skulls and bones of the victims and mass graves here.
We bought a stalk of chrysanthemum and incense for 2,000 Riel ~ S$0.70 to pray for the victims.
This is the "magic" tree where a loud speaker which play music loudly is hang to avoid the moan of the victims while they are executed.
2 children begging for money. I dont know what was this guy up to when he seems not giving them money but kept standing there.
House outside the Choeung Ek Killing Fields
The killing field seems quite big. It used to be a Chinese cemetery. Cant imgine 3m people have die just over the 3 years of regime.
Clothes wore by the people during the Khmer Rouge
On the way back from killing field
Bakery on the way selling local snacks. We bought some to try and the fillings are bean paste. It was soooo sweet. I guess the sugar is very cheap here. Not very nice tho.
Boddhi Tree Restaurant opposite Tuol Sleng prison
Cambodia rice crepe
Amok Curry
When I was planning for the trip, amok was a must eat dishes in PP. It was like otah! But their version have more coconut milk. I was totally dissappointed by this amok curry! Few fish slices and all were mushroom! We didn managed to finish all as we were too sick of the mushroom. Our lunch cost US$6.75 ~ S$9.45.
Ticket booth of Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum also known as S21 (Security Prison 21). It was just across the road from Boddhi. The opening hours is 8am-1.30am and 2pm-5.30pm daily and admission charge is US$2~S$2.80.
Formerly a high school, the five buildings of the complex were converted into a prison and interrogation center during the Khmer Rouge. From 1975 to 1979, an estimated 17,000 people were imprisoned at Tuol Sleng. At any one time, the prison held between 1,000-1,500 prisoners. They were repeatedly tortured and coerced into naming family members and close associates, who were in turn arrested, tortured and killed. Under the Pol Pot regime, nearly half of the population were wiped out.
Rules for the prisoners at S21
No laughing please
Khmer Rouge took every photos of every new arrival and retaining detailed confessions made by prisoners. After that, they were forced to strip to their underwear, and their possessions were confiscated before sending to the cells.
The poles were previously used by students for excercise. During the Khmer Rouge, the victims's hand are tied at the back with a rope and is lifted upside down until they lost consciousness. Then their head are dipped into the jar which is filled with smelly and filthy water used as fertilizer for the crops. The victims would regain conscious and continue the interrogation.
Iron bars
Iron bed
Barbed wire preventing prisoners from escaping and commiting suicide.
Photographs, history and stories of the horror past
All of the classrooms were converted either to tiny prison cells or interrogation rooms.
The prisoners were systematically tortured, sometimes over a period of months, to extract the desired ‘confessions’, after which the victim was inevitably executed at the killing field of Choeung Ek. Khmer Rouge said that they rather caught 10 innocent people than letting 1 traitor fled.
Out of an estimated 17,000 people imprisoned at S21, there were only 12 survivors. Initially I was reluctant to visit S21 as it was not for the faint hearted. After much thoughts, I decided to include in our itinerary to know more about the horror past. I feel more sad when I visited the S21. I was really feeling very depressed during the 1.5 hrs spent at S21. Pol Pot had studied in China b4 and learn about the communist ideology. Never did the Cambodians expect him to be such a cruel leader! He thinks that the country should start from Year Zero and everyone should be a farmers. All those educated people such as doctors, lawyers, teachers were prisioned and killed. Pol Pot died in 1998 due to illness. The case still continues in the Court today for those leaders of the khmer rouge.
We saw a pushcart selling sugarcane when we want came out. Alex treated us the sugarcane and demonstrated to us how to eat. Just put the whole piece in the mouth and chew until all the juices came out. Then spilled it out. I like this so much that I planned to buy back to spore. However I failed to come across sugarcane seller on the way to airport :(
The Russian Market (Psah Toul Tom Poung) caters more to the tourist. It is called Russian market because of its popularity among Russian expatriates during the 1980s.
The art of balancing on the head
Interesting light deco
The market was so packed and walkway could only accommodate 1 px. There were alot of clothes here but we bought none. On one end were stalls selling food.
Fried insects
Wet market. Those meat dont seems fresh to me after displaying at the stall for the whole afternoon without and freezer.
Cyclos
The only elephant in PP at the wat phnom and cost US$15 for a ride!
This small hill, or phnom, at the northern end of Phnom Penh give's Cambodia's capital its name. Legend has it that a Khmer woman Penh was dawdling by the riverbank when she noticed four Buddha images floating by. She grabbed the lot of them and lugged them over to the hill, where a wat was built to house them.
Ticket booth. The opening hr is 7am – 5.30pm daily. The admission is US$1. Actually you could get in without a ticket as the place was only surrounded by a very low metal chain. We encountered a auntie at the temple on top who asked us whether we have purchased the admission tix. Cant imagine she was quite bo liao to ask this as she was not a staff there. Free admission for Cambodians.
Wat Phnom
Stupa of King Ponhea Yat
Monkeys everywhere. Didn knew that my sis was so scared of the monkeys as they keep following my sis when she ate the corn which we purchased later.
Big clock. The students behind were koreans. Also at S21, there were also a group of koreans students at the ticket booth when we left. Think they were here for voluntary work.
We bought this corn - 1000 Riel ~ S$0.35 while waiting for Alex to come. The auntie does not know English thus we have some difficulty asking the price. In the end, she showed us a 500 Riel. But when we got the corn she say no in her guesture. It is 1000 Riel ! Anyway it was cheap so nvm giving her another 500 Riel.
We waited for 10-15mins b4 Alex came to fetch us. In between we were pestered by other tuk tuk drivers. I was abit angry while waiting and we think that Alex have went to look for business.
Camory cookie shop - located at 167 Sisowath Quay and open from 9am - 8.30pm. There were samples to be tried. The receipes were actually developed with the help of Executive Chefs from Singapore! The best seller is the Sreh T'nout which is made from a rich combo of chocolate, nuts and palm sugar. They also fund the education of poor and orphaned children. I went there on the 2nd last day to buy Sreh T'nout again for souvenir for frenz.
Cambodia Vietnam Monument built to a Vietnamese design in the late 1970s.
For those who wonder how does Alex look like...
Independence Monument aka Victory Monument, this Vann Molyvann-designed reddish-brown coloured edifice was built in 1958 to celebrate independence from the French and as a memorial to Cambodia's war dead.
Night Market (Phsar Reatrey) opens only on the weekends from 5pm - 9pm, located in the park between Street 106 and 108 on the riverfront.
There were only a few stalls selling food. And 2 or 3 stalls selling "yong tau foo", all fried. Not to our appetite but after searching across the road for food, we have no choice but to settle for this. Cos we have asked Alex to picked us up 1hr later! Wrong decision. Nothing much to shop!
Loud music were also played at the market. I notice that most of the songs played were translated from the Chinese songs.
We bought bean cakes and jelly which cost R1000 ~S$0.38. Again, the lady have to use notes to indcate how much. She pointed 3 bean cakes for that amt of $. But when we paid she gave 2. We asked again but she couldnt understand. Anyway jus 1 bean cake.
US$1. I think this is the smallest coconut that I have ever seen.
Pay to be weighted
My sis wanted to buy the bamboo glutinous rice. But lucky there were 1 customer and the granny open one for them to try. She gave me to try too since I was standing there. There were some beans inside the rice but the rice was cold. Thus we didn buy as glutinous rice was not good for digestion esp at nite.
Our dinner
The locals seems to like this type of "yong tau foo" very much. There were mats for the customers to sit on while enjoying the food.
After which we head back to our guesthouse. We paid Alex US$22.50 ~S$31.50 and gave him US$2 ~S$2.80 tips despite the fact that he made us waited at the wat phnom.
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Drive carefully. It is not only cars that can be recalled by their Maker.............................................
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