Sunday, January 10, 2010

Phnom Penh - 10/1/2010

I am looking forward for the day as we would be visiting alot of ulu places - Phnom Da, Phnom Chisor, Prasat Neang Khmao and Ta phrom Temple and not many tourists would go to those places. I booked through Bon Voyage as they quote me the cheapest. Bon Voyage only provided me the name and hp no of the driver. I asked for the car plate no, but they didn gave me. I was afraid that it was a scam or what. Our taxi driver Narith meet us at our guesthouse at 7.30am to pick us. Lucky there was only 1 px at the receiption, if not I dont know who exactly is Narith and may board the wrong taxi!
Narith stopped by a confectionery stall selling baguettes for us to buy our breakfast. For those who are hygiene conscious, you may not prefer to eat this. I saw quite a couple of houseflies flying while the staff prepares our baguettes.
I chose ham for the fillings while my sis chose sadines. 2 baguettes cost R7000 ~ S$2.45 with 2 small packets of complimentary salads. The baguette is very crispy while hot. Fillings taste okay, nothing special. The salad taste good compared to the thai mango salad I have tasted.
We ate the baguette in the car and really have some difficulty eating as the car was in a bouncy road.
Our first destination is Phnom Da located at Takeo province. Phnom Da can only be reached by boat from Angkor Borei during the wet season. It would cost USD25 to rent the motorboat. We chose to travel by car as we wanted to save cost and I dunno how to swim! There should be no life jacket on the small boat.
People squeeze onto a truck, van, tuk tuk, motor was a common sign in Cambodia. They really make full use of the transport.
On the way, Narith stop by a petrol station and asked us to pay him US$20 for the petrol. At first, we were sceptical as we scared that at the end of the day, he still collect US$60 from us. I remembered confirming with Bon Voyage that US$60 was nett, no additional charges. Later we confirmed that we only need to pay the balance US$40 for the day. Narith mentioned that he only earns US$50 and US$10 is the commission to travel agency Bon Voyage. After deducting the petrol cost and maintenance cost? (hmm...his car was very dusty after the trip) he dont really earned much.
On a dusty road, where the trees are all covered with the red dust.
The journey was about 2 hrs. Narith told us about his encounter during the khmer rouge regime. He was quite lucky as his family were farmers. However 4 of his brothers and 4 sis died in the Vietnam war and Khmer Rouge regime. I was very depressed after hearing this.
Automatic seat belt 
After the dusty journey, we went on the rocky journey on the road full of stones.
Hay can be found in almost every house that we pass by.
Houses were built high to prevent flooding.
I recognised this place as I saw on someone's blog. Is the place to take the boat to Phnom Da.
White cows
Padi field
After 3hrs of journey, we reached Phnom Da. We couldnt find any ticket booth, hence we started without paying admission fees. Bty, admission fee is US$2. Narith asked a group of children to follow us up the hill while he have his breakfast.
150 steps to Phnom Da temple
With the children
They do not wear any shoe!

The temple is 12 meters square and 18 meters high and was built in the 11th century . It was constructed of laterite, brick and sandstone under King Rudravarman and dedicated to Shiva. Phnom Da is the oldest historical site in Cambodia. It is the former ancient capital of Nor Kor Kouk Thlork.
It has three false doors and a real door which opens on the north side.  
Temple's peak is damaged
We gave the old man US$1 ~ S$1.40 who guard the temple.
Abit dissapointed as there was no statue left in the temple
When I was doing the research, I found that Vietnam can be seen from Phnom Da. However we have some difficulty communicating to the children as none spoke English. Later Narith come to our rescue and help us asked the children. Vietnam is behind the grassfield.
Curious about what's going on there
They were playing using the dry long beans
Carving on the floor

Further down the hill is temple ruin Ashram Maha Rosei, constructed in the late 7th-early 8th century, during the pre-Angkorian Chenla period, under Bahavavarman and shows signs of non-Khmer influence. Built at the end of the 6th century in Zhenla Period, during the reign of King Pavavarman I, the temple has five windows and two doors. It is 5.5 meters square and 7 meters high, it is built in the Indian style and features a double wall of basalt that faces north. It has one door and five windows.
Ashram Maha Rosei
The teenage guy who led us
Village at the foot of the hill. A lady came and asked for admission fee when we reached the foot of the Phnom Da. It was a Sunday but nowhere can you saw a tourist. Phnom Da is really deserted compared to all of the places we went in this trip. I guess not much people knew abt its existence.
We bought 2 packets of biscuits (US$1) totalling 28 small packs as many kids started to surround us when they knew we are going to give them the biscuits. Initially we wanted to give them cash, but realised that we dont have alot of small change. We gave the teenage guy US$1.
On the way, we pass by a couple of opposition party logo. 
Here we are at Phnom Chiso! Phnom Chisor was then known as Suryadri, 'the Mountain of the Sun' and due to the influence of Hinduism of that time, was dedicated to Brahma, 'the Creator of the Universe' and faces East. It is advisable to climb in the morning but we came almost noon with the sun directly above us! Phnom Chiso is 380m tall with 503 steps to the top of the hill.
Children carrying mineral water to sell at the hill top.
Stupa along the way
We were only at the mid hill yet perspiring all over and catching for breath. I can say that the steps were quite high. Sometimes we need to stop after climbing for a few steps before continuing.
Yes! We have reached the top!
The admission fee of US$2 was not levied at the bottom of the hill but at the top.
Shrine
Elephant welcoming us
Sleeping Buddha
Proceed further down is Phnom Chisor temple.
A pond that dried up
Phnom Chiso temple was built by King Sorayak Varman I dedicated to Brahmanism in early 11th century (1002-1050). This ancient Khmer temple stands on an 80 by 100 km square plateau and faces East.
Some of the areas were indicated as "danger". Better not to trespass them at your own risk. I guess there was landmines or pitholes as this area had gone through the war.
A very spectacular view at the back of the temple. No trees that block your view like the Phnom Da. My peacefulness was disturbed by a insane guy holding a flower and following me. My sis did not follow me to view the fantastic surroundings. Thus I quickly get back tgt with my sis. And this guy followed. So scarey! Imagine there was only the guy, me and my sis. Lucky he went away later.
I am not sure whether this directon form a straight line in the direction of Angkor or not? During my research, I found that the sanctuaries of Sen Thmol, just below Phnom Chisor, Sen Ravang and the former sacred pond of Tonlé Om  form a straight line from Phnom Chisor in the direction of Angkor. Thus I do not know where exactly are all those features.

Phnom Chiso temple was also small but a few times bigger than Phnom Da.

On the way down, a local guy started to walk beside us and start a conversation. He mentioned that his father was a taxi driver in Siem Reap and even asked for our hp no. Obviously, we told him we did not bring our hp and didn mentioned about hp no. He kept mentioning "I want to talk" and I said that we can talk on our way down. Later I found out that he means taking photo with us.
We bought a coconut at the foot of the hill for US$1.
Next we went to Prasat Neang Khmao and admission is free. No need to climb any hill as it is located on the ground level. Prasat Neang Khmao consists of two deteriorating brick prasats (towers) built in the Angkorian-era in the 10th century A.D. under King Jayavarman IV. There was probably at least one more ancient prasat where the modern pagoda now sits. Prasat Neang Khmau was originally dedicated to the Hindu god Shiva. The temple complex is named after Neang Khmau, ‘Black Lady’, a modern-era statue located in front of the temples. Most parts of Neang Khmao temple have also been damaged and now home to the bats.
Neang Khmao pagoda built by the king, Jarman IV during 10th century
Just for show. I did not touch the drum as I saw ants crawing on it.
Me & Narith. It was here when I got into the car and knocked my head against the car ceiling. I got in at a high speed as I was eager to have my lunch. Damn Painful. I saw stars at some moment.I wonder if I have any memory lost or my skull was dented. The pain last for about a week long.
Narith said that he would brought us to a restaurant to eat. To my surprise, the restaurant was not air-conditioned.
Sauces
Clockwise from left - Fried vegetable with beef, chicken soup, fried egg and cambodian salad (Complementary) The rice was served in a pot like the rice cooker. OMG! Too much rice for us and there was too much left over rice. I feel that it was such a waste! I wonder what does they do with the left over rice? recycle, no, no.
Fried vegetable with beef was nice, but the beef tasted like pork. The chicken soup has a strong lemongrass smell and a bit spicy like the Thai food. The fried egg with fish and pork was delicious but abit salty and oily.  Our lunch costs US$5 ~ S$7!

Local Cambodian fruit
It is a bit sour, the seeds can be eaten just like chewing peanuts. 
On the way, we bought barbeque frog (2,500 Riel ~ S$0.70) at a road stall.

The frog was spicy as they put alot of black pepper! I ate the upper body and there was alot of small bones. I dont really taste the meat as they stuff alot of other ingredients. But it taste nice. Would be better if they dont put so much black pepper.
5-6 palm fruit cost R1,000 ~ S$0.35. Very juicy.

Ta Prohm Temple built in 12th-century under King Jayavarman VII. There were quite a no of legend when I did the research. One of the common one was that the temple was built by Ta Prohm. While traveling through Tonle Bati, an Angkor king fell in love with Yeay Peau, the beautiful daughter of a fisherman. The king passed three months with her and she became pregnant. Upon leaving, the king gave her a ring with instruction to send the child she bore to Angkor. When her son, Prohm, duly presented the ring at Angkor, he was welcome at his father’s palace and given an education the king later sent him back to govern Takeo province. Prohm built a temple similar to those he’d seen at Angkor, and named it after himself. For his mother, he built Yeay Peau temple.
The admission to Ta Prohm is US$3 ~ S$4.20.
It was too commericalise here. Once you get out of the car, the locals esp the children would asked you to buy flowers and incense from them and followed you everywhere like your bodyguard. Each of us bought a flower for US$1 ~ S$1.40 to pray to the buddha at a shrine. We donated R5000 ~ S$1.75 to an old lady at the shrine after much pestering from the kids.

Following which, at every temples, they would be different locals guarding it. They would pestered you and asked you to come in and pray.
 Spot the Singapore Dollar?

On the way back to Phnom Penh, we stopped by the roadside and bought milk fruit. There were actually 10-20 stalls along the roadside selling the same fruits. Wonder how can they earn a living with competitiors just nearby. The stall owner let us taste the fruit as we have not taste it b4. The fruit taste sweet and is a bit like mangosteen and soursoup. The juice is white in colour, that's why is call milk fruit. We immediately bought 20 milk fruits for US$2.50 ~ S$3.50. Guess the owner can happily closed for the day.

Narith asked us whether we would like to use his service tomorrow to Oudong and Mekong Island for US$40 ~ S$56 including the ferry fares. We had already booked with another taxi driver, Rasi who charged us US$30 to Oudong only. Since we already knew Narith and his service is good, we decided to accept his offer. Later at night, we called Rasi and apologise that we did not need his service tml. The local call only cost R2000 ~S$0.70.
Tourist cycling in Phnom Penh. I also want to cycle around but it was quite dangerous on the chaotic road.
Water tank

Olympic Stadium which never held Olympic games.
Capitol 3 Guesthouse
Orussey Market
Barbeque sausage and meat stick
We walked along the street to search for our dinner but didn really find any food that fancy us.
Thus we just bought a sausage and some meat stick (similar to satay but no sauces) for R6,300 ~ S$2.20.

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